Serpentine belt problems usually result from one of three causes: a defective belt tensioner; misalignment of a pulley; or, defective bearings in the tensioner, idler, or one of accessories driven by the belt (including the water pump).
Fortunately, the belt can help you diagnose the problem, both before you remove it and afterward:
Squealing sound: Belt slipping
Chirping sound: Misalignment of an accessory drive pulley
Frayed belt edge: Misalignment of an accessory drive pulley
Polished belt edges: Belt slipping
Glazed belt grooves: Belt slipping
Fluid contamination: Oil, power steering, or coolant leak
Excessive cracking: Other than severe old age, defective tensioner
Whirring sound: defective bearing in tensioner pulley or idler pulley
Rhythmic noises occurring at engine speed: Delaminating belt backing, chunking of belt ridges, or foreign object embedded in belt groove
Grinding sound: damaged bearings in driven accessory
Belt coming off: Pulley misalignment, belt misalignment on pulley, defective tensioner, or bearing wear in tensioner, idler or driven accessories
Doing regular engine maintenance can help you avoid future repairs.
So you go out one morning and your engine will turn over but it won’t start… What could be wrong? Now that you know how an engine works, you can understand the basic things that can keep an engine from running. Three fundamental things can happen: a bad fuel mix, lack of compression or lack of spark. Beyond that, thousands of minor things can create problems, but these are the “big three.” Based on the simple engine we have been discussing, here is a quick rundown on how these problems affect your engine:
Have you ever opened the hood of your car and wondered what was going on in there? A car engine can look like a big confusing jumble of metal, tubes and wires to the uninitiated.
You might want to know what’s going on simply out of curiosity. Or perhaps you are buying a new car, and you hear things like “3.0 liter V-6″ and “dual overhead cams” and “tuned port-fuel injection.” What does all of that mean?
If you have read the page entitled How Car Engines Work, you know that the idea behind an engine is to burn gasoline to create pressure, and then to turn the pressure into motion. A remarkably tiny amount of gasoline is needed during each combustion cycle. Something on the order of 10 milligrams of gasoline per combustion stroke is all it takes!
The goal of a carburetor is to mix just the right amount of gasoline with air so that the engine runs properly. If there is not enough fuel mixed with the air, the engine “runs lean” and either will not run or potentially damages the engine. If there is too much fuel mixed with the air, the engine “runs rich” and either will not run (it floods), runs very smoky, runs poorly (bogs down, stalls easily), or at the very least wastes fuel. The carb is in charge of getting the mixture just right.
An alignment angle doesn’t change randomly. There is a cause-and-effect relationship between external and internal forces that can alter the geometry of a vehicle’s suspension. Having the alignment reading for only one angle on one corner is just like having the outside temperature without knowing if there is a tornado outside.
Just making an adjustment and not asking why the adjustment was needed can lead to a comeback. Knowing why the adjustment is required is critical to performing the total alignment.
Loads in the rear of the vehicle can cause changes to caster and camber. The camber and caster will become positive in the front, and if the vehicle has an independent rear suspension, the camber will become negative and it will be toed out. This could lead to outside edge wear in the front and inside edge wear in the rear.
Cure The Bog And Sluggish Response On Your Holley Four-Barrel Carburetor By Properly Adjusting The Accelerator Pump Assembly
If your car or truck is equipped with a Holley four barrel carburetor and stumbles upon acceleration, more than likely the carburetor needs an adjustment to the accelerator pump assembly. This assembly delivers an initial shot of fuel in the right amount, and duration, to provide crisp throttle response right off idle. Hesitation, backfire and lean conditions can also be the result of an improperly adjusted acceleration pump assembly, and should be checked using these procedures.
A basic engine removal and installation job requires at least 25 hours of labor, and usually a little more like 30. Of course anytime there is custom work, fabrication, problems with rusty or old parts, exhaust modifications, tranny and/or rear-end work, a bunch of old parts that need to be cleaned & painted, dozens of bolts that need to get cleaned, etc, it adds to that time accordingly. It’s really hard figure an accurate price for that kind of stuff ahead of time, so sometimes on top of a “basic” installation price, you might run into some extra “time and materials” to deal with things that you might not even have known you needed.
RetroSound has announced the release of its new Model Two radio, which is specifically designed for use in classic cars and is compatible with iPods and iPhones. The Model Two radio features built-in Bluetooth hands-free technology and comes with an external microphone. It also features wireless Bluetooth audio streaming from any iPhone or Android phone. Any phone app, including satellite radio, Pandora and Slacker Radio, can be streamed to the Model Two wirelessly, said the company.
he 5-speed Borg-Warner/Tremec T-5 is one popular gearbox. Thousands have been stuffed into everything from lowly Chevettes to Nissan 280ZX Turbos, but they’re most commonly found in Mustangs, F-body Camaros and Firebirds, and Chevy S-10 pickups. Muscle car fans can probably use one of the tougher versions as-is, but if you decide to slide one of these lightweight (75 pounds) and reasonably-priced boxes into a street rod or vintage pickup, you may be up against packaging problems.
There are over 250 versions of the T-5, with a seemingly endless variety of gear ratios, shifter locations, speedometer fittings and strength requirements. Unfortunately, we only have room to show you one of the most common T-5 conversions for street rods. It all comes down to a matter of class – World Class, to be exact.
Should I restore it totally stock or build it for performance? How about if I modify the drive train but leave the body stock? What changes can be undone if I want to make it stock again? What modifications will help or hurt the value of my car? How much will the performance be limited by staying stock?
Without a doubt, there can be a lot of options to be considered before a restoration project gets under way but they are really not difficult decisions once you know what you want your dream to look like. Our experienced team of professionals will keep you out of trouble.